There’s something romantic in a really old place, rich with history and pride. Every item in a historical place tells a story, some sad, mostly happy. It’s this sense of history that makes dinner at La Cocina de Tita Moning a special occasion.
The feast starts with the Trio of Three La Cocina Salads. First is the grilled eggplant salad with homemade vinaigrette and salted duck eggs. There’s the papaya salad with jamon serrano, fresh basil, carabao cheese and a honey calamansi vinaigrette. Then there’s fresh kangkong salad with grilled peppers, caramelized walnuts and homemade walnut vinaigrette.
The description of the salad most surely would have caused your mouth to water and your appetite to explode. I would have felt the same, except that I was able to read the description of the menu AFTER we had dinner. While we were eating, all I can say was, “Wow, I never thought kangkong could taste this great.” Really, individually the ingredients were ordinary. But everything came together in one culinary harmony that is difficult to describe.
Or maybe we can find a way to describe the La Cocina de Tita Moning experience if we step back to talk about the place. The story behind this fine restaurant is told by a descendant of this house, Suzette Montinola. She narrates, as noted in the La Cocina website, that “When my grandmother passed away in 1999, my aunts encouraged me to come up with a shortlist of food items she was especially known for. Being unemployed, and “searching for myself”, I said “why not?” She said that she was amazed to see people ordering the food.
She continued, “Turning the old house into a restaurant was never really an idea, but for some reason, the dinners began. Our first guests were just friends of friends. Before I knew it, the phone was ringing with inquiries and the press was knocking on our door writing wonderful things.” I’m not sure if we fall under “press” but, even if our writing style leaves much to be desired in expressing what our palates would have loved to say, we certainly would want to write about “wonderful things” about La Cocina, the place and the food.
This fine restaurant is tucked at the second floor of Legarda House, located at #315 San Rafael Street, San Miguel District, Manila. Now fenced within the Malacanang compound, and a few paces from the Presidential Palace, the art deco Legarda House was built in 1937. Tita Moning (Ramona Hernandez) lived with his husband (Alejandro Legarda) and kids in this house.
It’s easy to see that the family lived an affluent and interesting life. Tita Moning is said to have thrown lavish parties at the house. A guided mini-tour around the house showcases the medical instruments of Alejandro, who was a doctor. Cameras, radios, photos, and other memorabilia transport guests to the World War II era of Manila.
Our dinner package included a whole baked Lapu-Lapu, Tita Moning’s Pancit Guisado, Tita Moning’s Slowly Roasted Pork with Candied Sweet Camote, Paella Valenciana, and Sauteed Fresh Ubod.
To add sweetness, there’s caramelized saba bananas with vermouth, turon of saba banana and bread pudding with a native hot chocolate cups, and coffee.
Then there’s Salsa Monja. As far as I know “mongha” is related to nuns, which would probably explain the description of this part of the menu: “It is what the nuns used to make for the Spanish friars to accompany meals. You are to eat it together with your dinner to make everything a little more delicious.” That’s all we can relate to. Don’t ask us how it tastes. Don’t ask us what it’s made of.
You could, however, buy a bottle or two of Salsa Monja. It’s conveniently displayed at the ground floor of this ancestral home. You could bring home the bottle. But you can only take home the experience if you’ve been here. So what on earth are you waiting for? (All lunch and dinner are strictly by reservation; Telephone Nos. +632-7342146, +632-7342141)
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